Nha Xa sits on the bank of the Red River in Duy Tien, Ha Nam. Local tradition says a general of the Tran dynasty taught villagers to plant mulberry, raise silkworms and weave, and the craft has been passed down since. It is now recognised as national intangible cultural heritage.

Weavers here have moved from bamboo handlooms to power looms, but many family workshops still reel, dye and weave in one place. Nha Xa is known for plain and jacquard mulberry silk, and some dyers still colour thread with plants such as yam root, almond leaves and betel leaf.

We buy directly from these weavers, choose the bolts ourselves, and dye in small batches. Hold the cloth to the light and you can see the even weave and the soft sheen. To understand what you are buying before you spend, read our guide to Vietnamese silk.